Metals & Care

Welcome to my guide on the materials that make up your favorite pieces! Here, you will find information about the primary metals I use in my handcrafted jewelry and everyday accessories, as well as guidelines for preserving their beauty.

Proper care varies widely because every metal alloy and gemstone reacts differently to wear, light, heat, and everyday chemicals.

A Quick Note on Cleaning & Care:

The care recommendations provided here are based on standard industry best practices for healthy, untreated materials. However, because natural gemstones often contain microscopic inclusions, internal tension, or undisclosed trade treatments that cannot be detected without specialized laboratory equipment, individual pieces may react unpredictably. Please handle your jewelry with gentle care, and when in doubt—or for high-value or antique pieces—consider seeking professional inspection and cleaning. These guidelines are offered for informational purposes, and I cannot be held responsible for accidental damage incurred during at-home cleaning or maintenance.

metals

These are the primary metals I use in my handcrafted jewelry and everyday accessories. Proper care depends on the specific metal, as each alloy reacts differently to wear, moisture, and environment:

Argentium® Silver – An alloy of silver that is brighter white than traditional sterling, highly tarnish-resistant, and keeps on shining. Crafted with a touch of germanium, Argentium® Silver presents a bright white color closer to fine silver, yet remains extremely slow to tarnish under most conditions. It is also hypoallergenic, making it ideal for those sensitive to traditional sterling silver.

Sterling Silver – Any silver alloy containing 92.5% pure silver combined with 7.5% other metals—typically copper, which provides the necessary strength. When repairing or cleaning jewelry, it is crucial to distinguish solid sterling silver from silver-plated pieces. Look for hallmarks such as 9.25, 925, Sterling, S/S, or Sterling 9.25. If a piece lacks these markings, it is likely silver-plated.

Fine Silver – Composed of 99.9% pure silver. Because it is very soft—meaning it is easily damaged and does not hold stones securely—it has limited applications in jewelry making. Its primary benefit is that it does not tarnish.

Gold – In nearly every piece I create, I use solid 14k (karat) gold to maintain an accessible price point without sacrificing the exceptional quality needed to last for generations. 14k yellow gold contains roughly 58.5% fine gold alloyed with 41.5% copper and zinc, while 14k white gold combines 58.5% fine gold with 41.5% nickel and zinc. By comparison, 24k is pure gold, and 18k contains roughly 75% fine gold paired with 25% other metals.

The following metals may be included in a piece of jewelry and are included here for completeness.

Copper – A rich, warm-toned metal that provides a lovely, vintage aesthetic and serves as a budget-friendly alternative for everyday accessories like keyfobs, money clips, and heavy-wear items. Over time, untreated copper naturally reacts with air and skin chemistry to develop a deep, unique patina (or leave a harmless greenish tint on the skin).

Non-Solid Gold – To make the look of gold more accessible, a variety of plating and bonding techniques are used:

  • Gold-Filled – Made by heat-and-pressure bonding a thick layer of gold to a base metal, usually brass or copper. By US law, gold-filled items must contain at least 5% gold by total weight (often hallmarked as 1/20 14KT GF or simply 1/20). Although far more durable than gold-plated items, gold-filled jewelry can still tarnish over time.

  • Gold-Plated – Created by bonding an extremely thin layer of gold (usually less than 1% gold content) over a budget-friendly base metal such as copper or brass. While economical, this ultra-thin layer wears off quickly over time, and the underlying base metals can react with skin to turn it green.

  • Gold Vermeil – Similar to gold plating, but specifically uses sterling silver as the base metal, which is then coated with a gold layer at least 2.5 microns thick. Recognized by a "925" or Sterling stamp to indicate its sterling silver base, often accompanied by the word Vermeil or a gold karat mark like 14K or 18K, Vermeil is a high-quality alternative to solid gold, though the gold layer will still gradually wear off over time.

Care

In general, the best way to care for your jewelry is to follow the “last on, first off” rule. Put your pieces on after applying hairspray, perfume, lotion, and makeup, and make taking them off the first thing you do when you return home. This prevents product buildup that can dull metals and gemstones. Additionally, always remove jewelry before swimming, entering hot tubs, or coming into contact with harsh chemicals. While ultrasonic cleaners are highly effective at removing dirt and grime, their use is safe for only a very limited selection of jewelry, so alternative cleaning methods are recommended. (To learn more about safe practices, read the Gemological Institute of America’s guidance on cleaning jewelry HERE).

Metal Care

Proper care for your jewelry depends on the specific metal used, as each alloy reacts differently to moisture, wear, and household chemicals. Here are care guidelines to keep your metal pieces looking their best:

  • Argentium® Silver – Thanks to its germanium content, Argentium® resists tarnishing exceptionally well. To clean, soak for 5 to 10 minutes in a solution of warm water and mild dish soap (not laundry or industrial detergent). Gently scrub with a soft-bristled toothbrush, rinse, and dry thoroughly with a soft cloth before storing.

  • Fine Silver – Fine silver does not tarnish, making maintenance simple. Clean by soaking for 5 to 10 minutes in warm water with mild dish soap. Gently scrub with a soft toothbrush, rinse, and dry thoroughly with a soft cloth before storing.

  • Solid Gold – Gold does not tarnish, making routine care straightforward. Soak for 5 to 10 minutes in warm water mixed with mild dish soap. Gently scrub with a soft toothbrush, rinse, and dry with a soft cloth before storing. Note: Depending on the design and gemstone settings, some solid gold pieces can be safely cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner.

  • Non-Solid Gold & Plated Items – Never use an ultrasonic cleaner on gold-plated, gold-vermeil, or silver-plated items. The ultrasonic vibrations can loosen the bond between the gold and the base metal, while harsh cleaning solutions can strip the thin plating away entirely.

  • Sterling Silver – Sterling silver contains metals that react with airborne chemicals to produce tarnish—a process accelerated by high humidity, direct sunlight, and saltwater. Protect your sterling pieces by storing them in airtight bags in a cool, dry place. (Your purchase includes a tarnish-resistant bag designed to absorb harmful chemicals). To clean, soak for 5 to 10 minutes in warm water with mild dish soap, gently scrub with a soft toothbrush, rinse, and dry thoroughly with a soft cloth.

Gemstone Care

Gemstone care varies widely depending on the gem's physical structure, hardness, and sensitivity to heat or chemicals. Here are care guidelines for several popular gemstones:

  • Alexandrite

    • Care: Rated "excellent" for everyday wear and highly durable. Alexandrite is generally unaffected by light, heat, and common household chemicals.

    • Cleaning: Gently scrub with a soft toothbrush using warm water and mild dish soap. It is usually safe for ultrasonic cleaners unless the stone has been fracture-filled or heavily treated.

  • Cubic Zirconia (CZ)

    • Care: A synthetic material rated "good" for everyday wear. While resistant to standard household chemicals, CZ can be sensitive to extreme heat and can scratch or cloud over time with heavy wear.

    • Cleaning: Gently scrub with a soft toothbrush and warm water mixed with mild dish soap. Safe for ultrasonic cleaners as long as the stone is free of major fractures.

  • Diamond

    • Care: The hardest natural substance on Earth, rated "excellent" for everyday wear. Diamonds easily resist heat, scratch hazards, and everyday chemicals. However, a hard blow along a cleavage plane can still cause a diamond to chip or crack.

    • Cleaning: Soaking in warm water with mild dish soap and gently brushing with a soft toothbrush will easily remove oils that dull its brilliant shine. Ultrasonic cleaners are generally safe for natural, untreated diamonds (unless heavily included or fracture-filled).

  • Emerald (Lab-Created)

    • Care: Lab-created emeralds share the exact chemical composition and hardness of natural emeralds (7.5 to 8 on the Mohs scale), but they typically feature far fewer internal fractures. Rated "good" for everyday wear, though they should still be protected from sharp impacts and thermal shock (sudden temperature changes).

    • Cleaning: Gently scrub with warm water, mild dish soap, and a soft toothbrush. Unlike most natural emeralds, lab-grown emeralds without fracture fillings can often handle ultrasonic cleaning, though gentle hand washing is always the safest option.

  • Emerald (Natural)

    • Care: Rated "fair to good" for everyday wear with proper precautions. Almost all natural emeralds contain surface-reaching fractures and internal inclusions (known as the jardin), which are traditionally treated with oils or resins. Avoid exposure to heat, hot water, harsh chemicals, and sudden temperature changes, as these can strip away protective oils and weaken the stone.

    • Cleaning: Never use an ultrasonic or steam cleaner, as the vibrations and heat will strip out fracture-filling oils and can shatter the gem. Clean gently using only a soft cloth or a very soft toothbrush with lukewarm water and a drop of mild dish soap.

  • Jade (Jadeite and Nephrite)

    • Care: Jade is famous for its extreme toughness, making it exceptionally resistant to chipping and breaking, and rated "excellent" for daily wear. However, avoid exposing jade to harsh chemicals, prolonged direct sunlight, or extreme heat.

    • Cleaning: Clean with lukewarm water, mild dish soap, and a soft cloth or brush. Do not use ultrasonic or steam cleaners, particularly if the jade has been waxed or polymer-treated to enhance luster.

  • Opal

    • Care: Opals contain up to 20% water locked inside their structure, making them delicate and rated "fair" for wear. They are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, dry air, intense light, and chemicals. Never expose opals to boiling water, alcohol, or household cleaners, and take care to avoid impacts, as they scratch easily.

    • Cleaning: Never use an ultrasonic or steam cleaner. Clean gently using a soft, damp cloth with lukewarm, soapy water, then dry immediately. Do not submerge doublets or triplets (laminated opal pieces), as water can degrade the adhesive holding the layers together.

  • Pearls

    • Care: As delicate organic gems, pearls are highly vulnerable to acids and harsh chemicals found in hairsprays, perfumes, lotions, and cosmetics. Never wear pearls in a swimming pool or hot tub—pool sanitizers like chlorine and bromine will eat away at the outer luster and destroy the delicate nacre (though saltwater pools are generally safe for the pearl itself, prolonged soaking can weaken the silk thread). Perspiration can also dull their natural shine over time. Always observe the "last on, first off" rule and gently wipe your pearls with a soft cloth before placing them in your jewelry box.

      • Cleaning: Never use an ultrasonic or steam cleaner, which will permanently ruin the nacre. Clean by wiping gently with a soft cloth dampened in lukewarm water mixed with mild soap. Follow with a fresh water-dampened cloth to rinse, and dry thoroughly. If pearls come into contact with acidic fluids (such as citrus juice, wine, or vinegar), wipe them clean immediately.

  • Peridot

    • Care: Rated "fair" for everyday wear and requires light caution. Peridot is susceptible to thermal shock, so avoid sudden temperature shifts, hot water, direct heat, and exposure to acids or household chemicals.

    • Cleaning: Never use an ultrasonic or steam cleaner. Gently scrub using a soft toothbrush, warm water, and mild dish soap.

  • Ruby (Lab-Created)

    • Care: Lab-created rubies possess the identical chemical composition, hardness (9 on the Mohs scale), and fiery red appearance as natural rubies, but are grown in controlled laboratory settings with virtually no internal structural flaws. Rated "excellent" for daily wear, they withstand everyday activity, heat, and light exceptionally well.

    • Cleaning: Gently scrub with a soft toothbrush using warm water and mild dish soap. Because lab-grown rubies lack the delicate fractures and treatments of natural stones, they are generally safe for home ultrasonic cleaners.

  • Ruby (Not Lab-Created)

    • Care: Rated "excellent" for everyday wear due to their high hardness, but require care during cleaning. Natural rubies frequently contain minute internal inclusions or microscopic surface fractures that are often treated (such as oiling or fracture-filling) to improve clarity. Avoid exposure to harsh household chemicals and direct heat, which can damage or alter these treatments.

    • Cleaning: Do not use an ultrasonic or steam cleaner. Because hidden inclusions or subtle clarity treatments can make a natural ruby vulnerable to shattering under vibrational stress, stick strictly to hand cleaning. Gently scrub using warm water, mild dish soap, and a soft toothbrush, then dry thoroughly with a soft cloth.

  • Sapphire (including Black Star Sapphire)

    • Care: Like rubies, sapphires belong to the corundum family and are rated "excellent" for daily wear. They are tough, scratch-resistant, and unaffected by common chemicals.

    • Cleaning: Gently scrub with a soft toothbrush, warm water, and mild dish soap. Standard faceted sapphires are safe for ultrasonic cleaners. Note: For Star Sapphires (asteriated gems), avoid ultrasonic cleaning, as the microscopic needle inclusions responsible for the star effect can make the stone more vulnerable to vibrational damage.

  • Topaz (Blue)

    • Care: Rated "good" for everyday wear. Most blue topaz starts as natural colorless topaz that has been irradiated and heat-treated to produce its vibrant blue shade. Topaz possesses "perfect cleavage," meaning a direct impact can easily split the stone. Avoid direct heat, prolonged bright sunlight, and harsh chemicals.

    • Cleaning: Never use an ultrasonic cleaner, as ultrasonic vibrations can cause the stone to cleave along its internal fault lines. Clean gently using a soft toothbrush with warm water and mild dish soap.

  • Zircon (Blue)

    • Care: Not to be confused with synthetic Cubic Zirconia, natural Zircon is a distinct, brilliant mineral rated "fair to good" for everyday wear. Blue zircon is somewhat brittle and prone to chipping along its facet edges if struck. Avoid exposure to heat, direct sunlight, and harsh chemicals.

    • Cleaning: Never use an ultrasonic or steam cleaner. Clean gently using warm water, mild dish soap, and a soft toothbrush.